Colorado 14'ers: Bierstadt, Sawtooth, Evans Combo

BIERSTADT, SAWTOOTH, EVANS COMBO

In the world of climbing, peak bagging, and hiking, Colorado has some of the most accessible routes in the country, let alone the world. Throughout the entire state, there are *58 mountains that are 14,000' or higher. Some of these peaks are easier than others, attracting large crowds on weekends; and I mean it. With the likes of Grays and Torreys, as well as Bierstadt and Evans all within an hour and a half or so of Denver, some are more popular than others. When I arrived in Colorado last year, within 24 hours I had done Bierstadt. 

Before I even moved to Colorado just a week ago, I told myself that I would do at least one 14'er every weekend until I can't anymore, so what a better way to start my 14'er conquest than to do Bierstadt again, but this time do the Sawtooth Traverse and Evans all in one go.

ACCORDING TO 14'ERS.COM:

Exposure: 3/6

Class 3 Scramble

Gain: 3,900ft

Length: 10.2 miles

Start: 11,669'

Evans Summit: 14,264'

A few days before I planned on an attempt at the Combo Route, I messaged Reptar on Instagram to see if he was interested in possibly tagging along on the supposed 10.25 mile route that would tag two 14'ers along the way. At first, he seemed to be a bit hesitant when I mentioned that it included a class 3 scramble, but after some consideration, he eventually agreed and we planned to drive together. We hadn't talked about logistics until the Thursday night, and soon enough we had agreed to camp the night before so we could get a good start on the day. 

I left work on Friday at around 3 P.M and headed to REI first. I needed a new pair of shoes since my Timps are pretty much shot at this point and were beginning to give me some foot problems the last few days on trail. I snagged a pair of Tops Athletic MT2's and headed towards Reptar's place to pick him up and head for the mountains. 

Reptar and I had never actually hung out, but when I got to his place, we immediately started talking about trail and it was like I had just met him on a thru hike. The traffic started when we got on the highway and what would normally be just over an hour drive for us turned into nearly a two hour drive. After snaking up and around the switchbacks leading up to Guanella Pass, we finally arrived at the parking lot that would lead us to Bierstadt. We got out as the sun was beginning to set and packed our bags. We would go find a flat spot to sleep at, take some photos of the night sky, or at least we hoped, then crash. Turns out, the Meteor Shower was beginning to kick up and within moments the Milky Way was shining bright as meteors fell from the sky, creating a striking beam of light across the night sky each time. 

My headlight goes dim and I fall asleep.

Our 4:30 alarm sounded right on time, and as life would have it, when we woke, everything was covered in a thick layer of frost. My down quilt; completely soaked and frozen to the feather. My backpack that lay next to me; frozen. Shoes; frozen. We decided to pack up and go get warm in the car before we even thought about starting to hike. Turns out, we were both pretty exhausted and fell back asleep in the car for another hour and a half. I woke up as the sun was beginning to make its way behind the Sawtooth Ridge. I looked in my rear view mirror and I noticed a line of people outside of the toilet. Cars everywhere. People everywhere. Seems about right.

We hurried and got our bags packed again and started the Alpine Meadow walk up towards Bierstadt.

Our start time: 7:00 AM. 

The first mile or so of the hike includes some extremely mellow boardwalks. The switchbacks begin within a half mile, but don't begin to get steep for a little while. The trail is very well maintained, and as I mentioned above, there were people everywhere. We would pass a group while they were breaking, then we would leap frog as Reptar and I stopped to eat and catch our breath. Although I just got off the PCT, I haven't been at 12,000'+ for a few months. Reptar just summited Grays and Torrey's a couple of weeks ago, but he doesn't spend much time at elevation either as he is working quite a bit. Our packs held not much more than a half days worth of food, two liters of water each, and some extra layers in case the weather rolled in. The forecast was calling for sunny blue skies essentially all day, so I wasn't worried too much about the weather. 

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Switchback after switchback eventually led us to a plateau where we had some of the most surreal lighting on the Sawtooth. We stopped for a bit once again to take photos, and enjoy the hike up. We needed to pace ourselves so we had energy for the ridge and Evans. One more push to the base of the rock scramble would get us in striking distance. We slogged up and eventually passed nearly 75 people as we made our way to the base. Low and behold; another 25 at the base of the summit. Maybe more. At this point, Reptar and I were both pretty perplexed. I did Bierstadt last year on a Saturday and I don't recall this many people being on the mountain, but hey, its just as much theirs as it is mine. 

A sea of people awaited us at the top, and within a few minutes of getting to the top, we were on our way down with a new friend we had just met, Polar. His real name is Mark, but he was in the military and he mentioned that people used to call him that, so thats what I'll refer to him as. He asked if we were doing the Sawtooth and he questioned, "Mind if I tag along with you guys?". "Not at all!", we replied. Another set of eyes is always good to have while route finding, especially on a route you've never been on.

We began the descent towards the Sawtooth from the summit of Mt. Bierstadt at around 11 AM or so, give or take. The first thing we all noticed was the lack of any real trail. Exactly what I expected, but daunting nonetheless. We found our way down the talus field and eventually began to traverse boulders more comfortably with each step. Scree lay below most of the talus, so I stuck to the hopping and continued up, down and around until we got to the first outcropping. All three of us felt very confident up to this point. There isn't any real exposure on the descent towards the saddle, but a lot of the talus is quite unstable. Footing is very important here. We meandered slowly up and down, painstakingly making our way towards the west ridge where the class 3 begins. Polar was leading the route for a bit, but before we all knew it, I was in front and stayed in front for the remainder of the hike. I prefer to jump from boulder to boulder, so I left most of the scree routes up to them. I would rather traverse a few class 3 moves than go down a scree field, so catch me on the boulders. 

Sawtooth from Bierstadt

Sawtooth from Bierstadt

Now mind you, I had the route and the photos saved onto my phone so I could access them even in airplane mode, so I frequently was checking them to make sure we were on route. Each time I rounded a corner, or hopped onto a loose rock, I would relay the outcome back to Reptar and Polar. 

We finally reached the las outcropping. We had two options for a route to get around it and to the West Ridge. Either up and over, which is shorter, or around, which is the longer way. We opted for around just to be sure of the terrain and keep the risk to a minimum. Although it did take longer, it was worth it to know that there wasn't a huge risk of getting cliffed out on the other side of the outcropping. We each successfully navigated the last outcropping and got to the notch where we would begin the Class 3 section of the traverse. Although Reptar is apparently afraid of heights, I didn't see anything that would to elude to the fact up until we got to the West Ridge where the catwalk and scrambles were. Once we finally arrived at the true traverse and the crux, I could see that Reptar was beginning to let the fear get to him. He had been talking about how nervous he was all morning, but to be honest, he was much less afraid of the descent off Bierstadt than I was. Loose talus and scree worry me more than a few class 3 moves, but to each their own. 

Third and Final Outcropping

Third and Final Outcropping

Reptar ascending the talus and scree field

Reptar ascending the talus and scree field

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I continued to lead the class 3 route. Reptar was behind me, and Polar behind him. The West Side of the Ridge includes a few traverses, some extremely narrow catwalks, and a few actual class 3 moves. From a distance, the Sawtooth looks much more menacing and fear inducing, but when you actually arrive to the ledges, it's fairly stable. I avoided the scree at all costs, causing me and the rest of the group to take the high route on the last traverse. One can either hike under the overhang and up a steep slope of scree, or hike up and above the boulders, and traverse a few ledges which eventually turn to solid ground with plenty of space to feel secure. 

For me, the Class 3 moves were no problem, and since I don't generally have a fear of heights, the traverse wasn't that bad. For Reptar, who is afraid of heights, it was a different story. He powered through each and every obstacle, but I'd be lying if I said he did it with ease. I could tell the exposure was getting to him, especially as he crawled on all fours under rocks and over rocks to avoid going near the ledge. After each catwalk, we would take a break for everyone to catch their bearings. I would constantly yell back to the group with reports on the boulders and sections ahead. We were constantly communicating our moves, which is essential in these types of adventures that include some dangerous terrain. With the possibility of a rockfall, a slide, or any number of other issues going wrong at any point, it was nice to have constant updates, especially when a member of the group is not so keen on exposure. 

Class 3 Scrambling on the Sawtooth

Class 3 Scrambling on the Sawtooth

At last, we reached the notch where we would start our ascent towards Mt. Evans. The route at this point goes from a Class 3, immediately to Class 2 hiking as the ascent begins. It's a fairly steep grade, and with no real trail for a few tenths of a mile, the route throws some more navigating at you. Giant pieces of granite lay across the plateau and in the distance Mt. Evans is waiting. In between the crest of the ridge to the actual summit lay a couple of miles of boulder hopping, rock scrambling, and cairn following. Eventually, you pop over a bump on the ascent and begin to climb slowly towards the top on the outskirts of the mountain.

We began the ascent towards Mt. Evans at around 1:30 P.M from the end of the Sawtooth. We had taken much longer on the Sawtooth than we expected, and at this point, we were behind schedule by quite a bit. We didn't really have anywhere to be, so as long as the weather held up, it could take us all day and we wouldn't really have cared.

The slog up Mt. Evans began and at first we enjoyed the slow ascent towards the actual ridge line, but soon enough, as it always does, the trail got steeper, rockier, and more technical. Although it's only Class 2, the talus makes for some fairly unstable footing. We took a break roughly every quarter mile at this point. Reptar and Polar were feeling the altitude, lack of water and food much more than I was, but I wanted to stick together as a group. We only packed out two liters of water and some snacks, and we were starting to run a bit low on everything. The breaks were beginning to stack up, and by the time we got within striking distance of Mt. Evans, it was getting close to 4 o'clock. We were expecting to be down at the car no later than 5. We summited around 3:30 after getting some water from a couple at the parking lot. 

Looking back towards the ridge line from Mt. Evans.

Looking back towards the ridge line from Mt. Evans.

We enjoyed the summit of Mt. Evans for awhile. After all, it took us a hell of a lot of time to get there. Although there were more tourists on Evans than Bierstadt possibly, it is a helluva view. The ridge descending Evans back towards the plateau is fairly prominent, and with a few extra steps you can get some awesome views from nearly every direction. Reptar and I had packed out a beer each to enjoy on the summit, so we cracked them and cheersed. Although we were done with the ascent of both mountains, the descent was apparently just as tricky and possibly even more dangerous than the ascent. How great!

We ended up pounding our beers and all three of us headed down the ridge and descended Mt. Evans at around 4:00 P.M.

Mountain Goats!

Mountain Goats!

Another one!

Another one!

14'ers.com says that after descending the ridge off of Evans back towards the notch, you head NW into the open area towards a Gulley. We did just that. I eventually ran off down the mountain and made sure that the Gulley I was looking at matched up with the photos on the app. It sure did, but it is MUCH steeper than the photos make it look. I was surmised we had to hike down the gulley in front of me, but before I knew it I was off and the others were right behind me. After all the time I spent avoiding the scree on the Sawtooth, I was rewarded with nothing but it on the descent! Rocks slid, moved, and crumbled beneath me as I made haste of the first section of the descent. It seemed to be about a 1,300' descent in far less than a mile. I could feel the pain in each of my knees as I put more and more pressure on them as the terrain became less stable and even steeper. The trail eventually began to disappear and in place of it was more scree. The gulley just kept going. Boulder after boulder. Loose rock, with more loose rock in front of it. Eventually, we started to make out the parking lot off in the distance. The gulley would spit us out at the opposite side of the meadow as the Bierstadt Trail. This means that once we got to the end of the Gulley, we would have to navigate our way through roughly one mile of thick willow trees. It just so happens that these willow's are right next to a river, which creates plenty of mud pits, or a bog if you will. 

We waded through the willows for what seemed like much longer than a mile.

Reptar and I pushed on ahead and ended up waiting every 10 minutes or so for Polar and our new friend Jacob to catch up. Jacob caught up to us as we were getting ready to enter the Gully, and he had no idea of the route he was taking down. He said he was all too stoked to find other people on the way down, otherwise he was planning on taking the wrong ridge he said. 

The minutes kept ticking, and soon enough, the sun was beginning to set on the horizon. What we thought would be a six to eight hour hike, was turning into a 12 hour day. We weren't expecting the Sawtooth to take so long. We took the entire hike fairly leisurely until we really had to when it came to the Class 3 moves. 

The willows ended and we found ourselves back at the car just around 7:00 P.M, nearly 12 hours after we left the car earlier that morning.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON THE ROUTE:

Although 14'ers.com said that the route was only 10.2 miles, both my GPS tracker and Polar's said it was closer to 13.5-14.0 miles. It definitely was longer than 10.2, I'll tell you that much. I would plan for a long day if you're not acclimated to the altitude or to the terrain. The route is fairly difficult in some sections, but a lot of the Sawtooth is much more daunting from the car than it is when you actually get on it. 

I really enjoyed the route, especially the scrambling and the Sawtooth. Polar and Reptar weren't too big of fans of the route until we actually got done with it, but it was different. The route kept throwing us curveballs from the start to the finish. We had an exorbitant amount of people to wade through on top of Bierstadt. The initial freight of looking down at the Sawtooth. Dealing with the unreal amount of scree and talus on the descent. The Class 3 scramble. The West Ridge and it's exposure. The nonstop, relentless boulders that kept coming on the ascent to Mt. Evans. Mountain goats. The wildly steep descent down the gulley to the willows. This route had everything and I would most certainly do it again. I thought the route was well put together. It thinned out drastically once we descended from Bierstadt, so it was nice to have a more relaxed change of pace rather than the sea of people up top. 

Overall, it was a challenging, but very rewarding hike with some exposure that I felt comfortable with, which made for an epic day. Thanks to Reptar for joining me on the route!

Next up: Gray's and Torreys via Kelso Ridge / Keep an eye out.

Pacific Crest Trail: Into the Smoke

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I stumbled out of the train and onto the platform; eyes extremely tired, and hardly awake. It was 1:00 AM and I had just taken a four hour ride from Chemult to Dunsmuir on the Amtrak. I was planning on going to sleep right there at the station, but as soon as I stepped off the train a kind woman asked if I was a PCT Hiker. I of course said yes, and she proceeded to offer me a free bed at her hostel, Crossroads, right outside of town. I happily accepted the offer and within 10 minutes I was out cold on one of the beds that was outside. I had to be up early to get to the bus in time to catch my ride to Etna. I was planning on meeting up with the boys again; I hadn’t seen them really much in the last two weeks so I was pretty stoked. 

I woke up early, walked the 3 miles back into town, and hopped on the public transport towards Etna. I had one transfer in Yreka, and before I knew it, I was back with the boys. I was waiting for the heat to die out before I got back on Trail, so I had no intention of immediately hiking out. We all caught up, and enjoyed some breakfast in the late morning on the porch. Smoked a few smokes. Shot the shit. The usual. 

Evening began to arrive and with Etna being such a small town, I knew I needed to get out before darkness came. I went to hitch and the minutes kept ticking. An hour and a half later I was back on Trail. I was looking forward to this moment for a few reasons, but mainly to just walk again. I was excited to hike alone, but I just wanted to hike. I missed the ground. The dirt. The water, most importantly. I missed the sunsets. 

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So I walked a few miles and found the first flat spot in the trees and went to bed under my tarp for the first time in nearly a week. I laid my pad down on the ground, blew my pillow up, and passed out immediately. 

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I awoke at 5:30 and packed up. It was nice having a relaxing morning. I even made coffee. I got going by 6:00 or so and walked with the sun. The first few miles included a beautiful hike down the ridge and along some beautiful rock formations into Marble Mountain Wilderness. I planned to get a big day in, and with that came a quick pace and frequent breaks. I generally try and average about 3.25mph when I hike alone. The miles came and went as the ridge went up and down through the mountains. About halfway through the day I finally realized that all of the ‘haze’ I was seeing was actually smoke from a recently sparked fire. The Hendrix fire picked up on Sunday after a lightning strike nearby.

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 The day wore on and by evening, I had over 30 miles done for the day and had plenty of daylight left. I took a long break beneath a tree, only to be swarmed by flies minutes later. I sat through it and got comfortable. I wanted to lay down and appreciate the day; so I did. I sat there for an hour. I made a ramen, smoked a few cigarettes, and kicked my shoes off. I had another 6 miles left so I got up and kept cruising into the sunset. 

Trail Crew Working

Trail Crew Working

I eventually found a flat spot on another ridge line, tucked into some trees, surrounded by a red glow in the sky. I hopped out of the trees and onto the trail to eat dinner and watch the sunset. The smoke lay between the layers of mountains, rapidly filling each of them to the brim. The trees began to disappear and the sun clipped the horizon yet again. 

I chose to cowboy camp again and as usual, the mosquitos were out. I’ve come to ignore them quite easily now, but they’re still rather annoying; especially when it’s roasting hot outside and you only have a 10deg quilt. Within minutes of laying my head down as the darkness came upon the silhouetted woods, I started to hear branches breaking far less than 20 yards away. I snapped up immediately and shined my light bright into the forest, yelling for a short stint. I knew that it was a bear and not a deer. Eventually the snapping subsided and I laid my head back down. Again, it started. 

Eventually, an hour later I fell asleep, exhausted from the 35 mile day. I knew I had a 20 mile day awaiting into town, and I wanted to get in early for the day. 

I ignored my alarm as it beeped away at 5:30. I slept heavily until I finally was woken up by the glow of the sun eclipsing the trees to my east. It was time to get up, it was already 6:45 and I wanted to get to town to get some more miles in on the climb up and out of Seiad Valley. 

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I got packed up and when I put my shoes on I noticed a soreness in my foot, right on the tendon leading to the big toe. The pain was centered on the connection between the joint and tendon. It was sore to the touch, but not incredibly painful. I slipped the shoes on and wrote it off. I hadn’t felt that pain before.

Immediately, I noticed the smoke had gotten worse. The thick cloud had moved in and consumed most of the forest. The rest of the day was downhill so I slowed my pace and took it easy for the day, just trying to make it before 2 or so. I stopped every so often and tried to enjoy the breeze when it came.

By noon I only had 3 and a half Miles to go so I put it into high gear and got through the road walk as quick as possible. The sun was melting the pavement, making every step agonizing on my feet. I could feel the heat sinking into the foam of my shoes and softening them. I got to town just after 1 and rolled in, and as expected saw Taco and Miraj sitting at the table. I ordered a burger and immediately was informed of a situation. Something we were expecting but not hoping for.

UNRELATED / Here’s some portraits of Slug and Taco:

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A new forest fire was affecting the PCT and an official statement issued a few hours earlier.  Everyone kind of expected this but to be honest, we all didn’t know what to do at first. As soon as other hikers got wind of it, people started hitching to Ashland. A few groups got out within the first hour of me being there. I was keen on hiking into the fire area and beating the closure, but the more I thought about it, the less and less that sounded like a good idea. Taco wanted to cross the border officially and decided to go for it. He hiked out with a group of 4 other people or so, and they were off. The rest of the group; Beehive, Slug, Miraj, Craynip, Feather, his girl, and Myself all decided to hitch up to Ashland and avoid the fire reroute and the smoke. 

My main concern was hiking through miles and miles of thick smoke generated from the extremely close fire near the border. 

Miraj and Slug got a ride that night and the rest of us stealth camped outside of town. We got up early, received the official statement that the PCT was closed for the 15 miles or whatever, and made our decision to start hitching.  

After two hours in the scorching, relentless sun, we finally got a ride. A rad girl by the name of Mckayla picked us up and offered us a ride to Yreka, a direct shot straight up to Ashland. We took the ride and made our way towards the small town. An hour or so later we got dropped off at the I-5 on ramp and another long hitch commenced. 45 minutes to the North was Ashland, and then Medford, where Scooter and Smokebreak were.

We eventually all met up in Ashland, where I still am now.  

Some of the group crossed into Oregon as planned; by foot. Some of us didn’t. The PCT has thrown so many curve balls my way, but somehow I’ve dealt with them. The fact that everyone has walked nearly 1700 miles to get here is insane. The fact that some were and still will be forced into Oregon earlier than expected is just how the PCT works. Fire closures are common and it’s just ironic that this one prevents someone from crossing the border easily or safely. 

Myself? I’m not too worried about it. I’ve known that my PCT Hike was going to be a little less ordinary once I got to Bishop and quit. I haven’t been quite as concerned with the miles, the trail, or what the ‘plan’ is since I skipped the section from Bishop to Mammoth. In fact, if I had, I probably would have been off of the PCT much sooner. 

As we all know, sometimes people get so wrapped up in the idea of something, that they lose focus on what is truly important. There have been times where I have questioned every bit of my decision making out here, but I’ve always come back to the realization that I’m out here because I enjoy the simplicity, and truthfully, nothing more or less. Everything that comes along with it is magnetic. To me, it’s truly just the idea of actually living.  

So I didn’t even walk into Oregon. Another piece of this PCT hike going not even remotely close to as I had envisioned. I’m not saying it’s a bad thing, but my god, things couldn’t have been more different than what I expected. I’ve been embracing every turn and every bend out here. I’ve been looking forward to the next steps, and as life would have it, there are some big ones coming up.  

Things have changed. The next blog post won’t be so typical. 

Heres one last portrait of Miraj from earlier today: 

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