Colorado 14'ers: Bierstadt, Sawtooth, Evans Combo

BIERSTADT, SAWTOOTH, EVANS COMBO

In the world of climbing, peak bagging, and hiking, Colorado has some of the most accessible routes in the country, let alone the world. Throughout the entire state, there are *58 mountains that are 14,000' or higher. Some of these peaks are easier than others, attracting large crowds on weekends; and I mean it. With the likes of Grays and Torreys, as well as Bierstadt and Evans all within an hour and a half or so of Denver, some are more popular than others. When I arrived in Colorado last year, within 24 hours I had done Bierstadt. 

Before I even moved to Colorado just a week ago, I told myself that I would do at least one 14'er every weekend until I can't anymore, so what a better way to start my 14'er conquest than to do Bierstadt again, but this time do the Sawtooth Traverse and Evans all in one go.

ACCORDING TO 14'ERS.COM:

Exposure: 3/6

Class 3 Scramble

Gain: 3,900ft

Length: 10.2 miles

Start: 11,669'

Evans Summit: 14,264'

A few days before I planned on an attempt at the Combo Route, I messaged Reptar on Instagram to see if he was interested in possibly tagging along on the supposed 10.25 mile route that would tag two 14'ers along the way. At first, he seemed to be a bit hesitant when I mentioned that it included a class 3 scramble, but after some consideration, he eventually agreed and we planned to drive together. We hadn't talked about logistics until the Thursday night, and soon enough we had agreed to camp the night before so we could get a good start on the day. 

I left work on Friday at around 3 P.M and headed to REI first. I needed a new pair of shoes since my Timps are pretty much shot at this point and were beginning to give me some foot problems the last few days on trail. I snagged a pair of Tops Athletic MT2's and headed towards Reptar's place to pick him up and head for the mountains. 

Reptar and I had never actually hung out, but when I got to his place, we immediately started talking about trail and it was like I had just met him on a thru hike. The traffic started when we got on the highway and what would normally be just over an hour drive for us turned into nearly a two hour drive. After snaking up and around the switchbacks leading up to Guanella Pass, we finally arrived at the parking lot that would lead us to Bierstadt. We got out as the sun was beginning to set and packed our bags. We would go find a flat spot to sleep at, take some photos of the night sky, or at least we hoped, then crash. Turns out, the Meteor Shower was beginning to kick up and within moments the Milky Way was shining bright as meteors fell from the sky, creating a striking beam of light across the night sky each time. 

My headlight goes dim and I fall asleep.

Our 4:30 alarm sounded right on time, and as life would have it, when we woke, everything was covered in a thick layer of frost. My down quilt; completely soaked and frozen to the feather. My backpack that lay next to me; frozen. Shoes; frozen. We decided to pack up and go get warm in the car before we even thought about starting to hike. Turns out, we were both pretty exhausted and fell back asleep in the car for another hour and a half. I woke up as the sun was beginning to make its way behind the Sawtooth Ridge. I looked in my rear view mirror and I noticed a line of people outside of the toilet. Cars everywhere. People everywhere. Seems about right.

We hurried and got our bags packed again and started the Alpine Meadow walk up towards Bierstadt.

Our start time: 7:00 AM. 

The first mile or so of the hike includes some extremely mellow boardwalks. The switchbacks begin within a half mile, but don't begin to get steep for a little while. The trail is very well maintained, and as I mentioned above, there were people everywhere. We would pass a group while they were breaking, then we would leap frog as Reptar and I stopped to eat and catch our breath. Although I just got off the PCT, I haven't been at 12,000'+ for a few months. Reptar just summited Grays and Torrey's a couple of weeks ago, but he doesn't spend much time at elevation either as he is working quite a bit. Our packs held not much more than a half days worth of food, two liters of water each, and some extra layers in case the weather rolled in. The forecast was calling for sunny blue skies essentially all day, so I wasn't worried too much about the weather. 

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Switchback after switchback eventually led us to a plateau where we had some of the most surreal lighting on the Sawtooth. We stopped for a bit once again to take photos, and enjoy the hike up. We needed to pace ourselves so we had energy for the ridge and Evans. One more push to the base of the rock scramble would get us in striking distance. We slogged up and eventually passed nearly 75 people as we made our way to the base. Low and behold; another 25 at the base of the summit. Maybe more. At this point, Reptar and I were both pretty perplexed. I did Bierstadt last year on a Saturday and I don't recall this many people being on the mountain, but hey, its just as much theirs as it is mine. 

A sea of people awaited us at the top, and within a few minutes of getting to the top, we were on our way down with a new friend we had just met, Polar. His real name is Mark, but he was in the military and he mentioned that people used to call him that, so thats what I'll refer to him as. He asked if we were doing the Sawtooth and he questioned, "Mind if I tag along with you guys?". "Not at all!", we replied. Another set of eyes is always good to have while route finding, especially on a route you've never been on.

We began the descent towards the Sawtooth from the summit of Mt. Bierstadt at around 11 AM or so, give or take. The first thing we all noticed was the lack of any real trail. Exactly what I expected, but daunting nonetheless. We found our way down the talus field and eventually began to traverse boulders more comfortably with each step. Scree lay below most of the talus, so I stuck to the hopping and continued up, down and around until we got to the first outcropping. All three of us felt very confident up to this point. There isn't any real exposure on the descent towards the saddle, but a lot of the talus is quite unstable. Footing is very important here. We meandered slowly up and down, painstakingly making our way towards the west ridge where the class 3 begins. Polar was leading the route for a bit, but before we all knew it, I was in front and stayed in front for the remainder of the hike. I prefer to jump from boulder to boulder, so I left most of the scree routes up to them. I would rather traverse a few class 3 moves than go down a scree field, so catch me on the boulders. 

Sawtooth from Bierstadt

Sawtooth from Bierstadt

Now mind you, I had the route and the photos saved onto my phone so I could access them even in airplane mode, so I frequently was checking them to make sure we were on route. Each time I rounded a corner, or hopped onto a loose rock, I would relay the outcome back to Reptar and Polar. 

We finally reached the las outcropping. We had two options for a route to get around it and to the West Ridge. Either up and over, which is shorter, or around, which is the longer way. We opted for around just to be sure of the terrain and keep the risk to a minimum. Although it did take longer, it was worth it to know that there wasn't a huge risk of getting cliffed out on the other side of the outcropping. We each successfully navigated the last outcropping and got to the notch where we would begin the Class 3 section of the traverse. Although Reptar is apparently afraid of heights, I didn't see anything that would to elude to the fact up until we got to the West Ridge where the catwalk and scrambles were. Once we finally arrived at the true traverse and the crux, I could see that Reptar was beginning to let the fear get to him. He had been talking about how nervous he was all morning, but to be honest, he was much less afraid of the descent off Bierstadt than I was. Loose talus and scree worry me more than a few class 3 moves, but to each their own. 

Third and Final Outcropping

Third and Final Outcropping

Reptar ascending the talus and scree field

Reptar ascending the talus and scree field

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I continued to lead the class 3 route. Reptar was behind me, and Polar behind him. The West Side of the Ridge includes a few traverses, some extremely narrow catwalks, and a few actual class 3 moves. From a distance, the Sawtooth looks much more menacing and fear inducing, but when you actually arrive to the ledges, it's fairly stable. I avoided the scree at all costs, causing me and the rest of the group to take the high route on the last traverse. One can either hike under the overhang and up a steep slope of scree, or hike up and above the boulders, and traverse a few ledges which eventually turn to solid ground with plenty of space to feel secure. 

For me, the Class 3 moves were no problem, and since I don't generally have a fear of heights, the traverse wasn't that bad. For Reptar, who is afraid of heights, it was a different story. He powered through each and every obstacle, but I'd be lying if I said he did it with ease. I could tell the exposure was getting to him, especially as he crawled on all fours under rocks and over rocks to avoid going near the ledge. After each catwalk, we would take a break for everyone to catch their bearings. I would constantly yell back to the group with reports on the boulders and sections ahead. We were constantly communicating our moves, which is essential in these types of adventures that include some dangerous terrain. With the possibility of a rockfall, a slide, or any number of other issues going wrong at any point, it was nice to have constant updates, especially when a member of the group is not so keen on exposure. 

Class 3 Scrambling on the Sawtooth

Class 3 Scrambling on the Sawtooth

At last, we reached the notch where we would start our ascent towards Mt. Evans. The route at this point goes from a Class 3, immediately to Class 2 hiking as the ascent begins. It's a fairly steep grade, and with no real trail for a few tenths of a mile, the route throws some more navigating at you. Giant pieces of granite lay across the plateau and in the distance Mt. Evans is waiting. In between the crest of the ridge to the actual summit lay a couple of miles of boulder hopping, rock scrambling, and cairn following. Eventually, you pop over a bump on the ascent and begin to climb slowly towards the top on the outskirts of the mountain.

We began the ascent towards Mt. Evans at around 1:30 P.M from the end of the Sawtooth. We had taken much longer on the Sawtooth than we expected, and at this point, we were behind schedule by quite a bit. We didn't really have anywhere to be, so as long as the weather held up, it could take us all day and we wouldn't really have cared.

The slog up Mt. Evans began and at first we enjoyed the slow ascent towards the actual ridge line, but soon enough, as it always does, the trail got steeper, rockier, and more technical. Although it's only Class 2, the talus makes for some fairly unstable footing. We took a break roughly every quarter mile at this point. Reptar and Polar were feeling the altitude, lack of water and food much more than I was, but I wanted to stick together as a group. We only packed out two liters of water and some snacks, and we were starting to run a bit low on everything. The breaks were beginning to stack up, and by the time we got within striking distance of Mt. Evans, it was getting close to 4 o'clock. We were expecting to be down at the car no later than 5. We summited around 3:30 after getting some water from a couple at the parking lot. 

Looking back towards the ridge line from Mt. Evans.

Looking back towards the ridge line from Mt. Evans.

We enjoyed the summit of Mt. Evans for awhile. After all, it took us a hell of a lot of time to get there. Although there were more tourists on Evans than Bierstadt possibly, it is a helluva view. The ridge descending Evans back towards the plateau is fairly prominent, and with a few extra steps you can get some awesome views from nearly every direction. Reptar and I had packed out a beer each to enjoy on the summit, so we cracked them and cheersed. Although we were done with the ascent of both mountains, the descent was apparently just as tricky and possibly even more dangerous than the ascent. How great!

We ended up pounding our beers and all three of us headed down the ridge and descended Mt. Evans at around 4:00 P.M.

Mountain Goats!

Mountain Goats!

Another one!

Another one!

14'ers.com says that after descending the ridge off of Evans back towards the notch, you head NW into the open area towards a Gulley. We did just that. I eventually ran off down the mountain and made sure that the Gulley I was looking at matched up with the photos on the app. It sure did, but it is MUCH steeper than the photos make it look. I was surmised we had to hike down the gulley in front of me, but before I knew it I was off and the others were right behind me. After all the time I spent avoiding the scree on the Sawtooth, I was rewarded with nothing but it on the descent! Rocks slid, moved, and crumbled beneath me as I made haste of the first section of the descent. It seemed to be about a 1,300' descent in far less than a mile. I could feel the pain in each of my knees as I put more and more pressure on them as the terrain became less stable and even steeper. The trail eventually began to disappear and in place of it was more scree. The gulley just kept going. Boulder after boulder. Loose rock, with more loose rock in front of it. Eventually, we started to make out the parking lot off in the distance. The gulley would spit us out at the opposite side of the meadow as the Bierstadt Trail. This means that once we got to the end of the Gulley, we would have to navigate our way through roughly one mile of thick willow trees. It just so happens that these willow's are right next to a river, which creates plenty of mud pits, or a bog if you will. 

We waded through the willows for what seemed like much longer than a mile.

Reptar and I pushed on ahead and ended up waiting every 10 minutes or so for Polar and our new friend Jacob to catch up. Jacob caught up to us as we were getting ready to enter the Gully, and he had no idea of the route he was taking down. He said he was all too stoked to find other people on the way down, otherwise he was planning on taking the wrong ridge he said. 

The minutes kept ticking, and soon enough, the sun was beginning to set on the horizon. What we thought would be a six to eight hour hike, was turning into a 12 hour day. We weren't expecting the Sawtooth to take so long. We took the entire hike fairly leisurely until we really had to when it came to the Class 3 moves. 

The willows ended and we found ourselves back at the car just around 7:00 P.M, nearly 12 hours after we left the car earlier that morning.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON THE ROUTE:

Although 14'ers.com said that the route was only 10.2 miles, both my GPS tracker and Polar's said it was closer to 13.5-14.0 miles. It definitely was longer than 10.2, I'll tell you that much. I would plan for a long day if you're not acclimated to the altitude or to the terrain. The route is fairly difficult in some sections, but a lot of the Sawtooth is much more daunting from the car than it is when you actually get on it. 

I really enjoyed the route, especially the scrambling and the Sawtooth. Polar and Reptar weren't too big of fans of the route until we actually got done with it, but it was different. The route kept throwing us curveballs from the start to the finish. We had an exorbitant amount of people to wade through on top of Bierstadt. The initial freight of looking down at the Sawtooth. Dealing with the unreal amount of scree and talus on the descent. The Class 3 scramble. The West Ridge and it's exposure. The nonstop, relentless boulders that kept coming on the ascent to Mt. Evans. Mountain goats. The wildly steep descent down the gulley to the willows. This route had everything and I would most certainly do it again. I thought the route was well put together. It thinned out drastically once we descended from Bierstadt, so it was nice to have a more relaxed change of pace rather than the sea of people up top. 

Overall, it was a challenging, but very rewarding hike with some exposure that I felt comfortable with, which made for an epic day. Thanks to Reptar for joining me on the route!

Next up: Gray's and Torreys via Kelso Ridge / Keep an eye out.

Pacific Crest Trail: Decision Time

One by one, everyone left the room. First Beehive, then Craynip. Not long after, Smokebreak followed. All of a sudden Scooter and I found ourselves alone in a hotel room that was now nothing more than the remnants of a night in a hotel room with six dudes. Scattered pillows and blankets. Random drink cups and paper bags littered throughout. Relatively similar to what one would come to expect from a group of people that have been hiking for three months. 

I said my goodbyes to Smokebreak with a little more earnest than the others besides Beehive; although I knew I’d see him before I saw Smokebreak next. 

We left the hotel room not long after and headed towards town once again. We were going to meet up with Taco, Miraj, and Slug somewhere downtown. The Safeway appeared on the corner so we stopped in to get some snacks and use the restroom and coincidently ran into the three. We piled our gear in the corner of the Starbucks and decided to chill for a bit before going to the park to hang for even longer before they hiked out. 

The time came for them to hike out so I said my final goodbyes to them as well. Taco and I had a moment, I’d say. He had become one of my favorite people I’ve ever met and we’ve shared some incredible conversations over the last few months.  

Noticed I said ‘they’?  

Once I got into Ashland, I knew it was time to take a look at my resources and to undoubtedly make a decision for what the rest of my summer would hold. To fill some of you in, I worked in corporate sales for about 7 months before I left for the CDT last year and have been traveling using the funds from that endeavor for the last 17 months. Prior to jumping onto the PCT, I calculated roughly 100 days of travel without having to sell my car or tack on too much credit to the card. I told myself that once I hit the 100 day mark I would make a decision. As life would have it, roughly 100 days after I left Ohio, the time came. I had a few options on what I could do. 

If you would have asked me before I left about what I would choose to do once my funds ran out, I would have immediately responded with an irrational “Oh, I’m selling my car. I wouldn’t consider anything else.”. 

A lot can change in three months, though. I hadn’t had the foresight to predict getting Giardia going into Bishop, initially taking my momentum away from the miles. I didn’t have the ability to foresee, or even fathom the possibility of meeting Pauline and falling in love. I couldn’t have ever imagined anything that actually occurred on the PCT, leading me to believe that I actually had no idea of my plans once the funds ran out. 

I considered everything, analyzed my choices, and made a decision. Now, I make it sound easy, well, because it was. I realistically only had three options, so narrowing it down and choosing was fairly simple. I’m fairly certain I had my mind made up long before this moment, but I just wasn’t sure. 

To let you in on something; Ducky was in Portland and we were legitimately going slightly stir crazy at the thought of trying to see each other again. We had been talking about trying to find a way to be with each other once more before she left for Amsterdam. Well, this was my chance to not only see her again, but to also make my final decision on whether or not I would continue hiking north, go home and begin work, or find work out west.

It just so happened to be that Scooter was also going to Portland the following day. His lungs took a brutal beating from the smoke that was emitted from the Hendrix Fire. His lungs were already quite beat up from an infection in the winter, so after much deliberation on his part, he made the decision to get off the PCT to prevent further damage.

So the decision was made. I would go to Portland to meet up with Pauline and make my final decision from there; whether I would sell my car or not, or find work, etc. 

I booked my greyhound ticket for Monday with Scooter and all that was left was the waiting game. We had one more night in Ashland then off to Portland.

Scooter and I have spent a lot of time on Trail together over the last few years, so we decided to find a nice stealth spot out of town to camp at before we got the bus the next morning. We didn’t want to get another hotel room so we meandered into the woods just outside of town and found a nice spot to camp for the night. We talked about how much of a whirlwind this year has been; reminiscing quite a bit about our road trip earlier in the year, our Long Trail Thru Hike last October, and the miles we hiked together  this year on the PCT. We’ve shared some incredible experiences together over these three years and I wouldn’t have had it any other way. I’m thankful to have a friend who I’ve seen so much of the country with. 

 I slipped into sleep as darkness came and my last night in Ashland was over. 

Scooter and I woke up early and slowly got back into town to get ready for a long day of travel. We had a bus to catch to Medford, then a Greyhound to Eugene with a transfer eventually taking us to Portland. 

It was a long bus ride with little to no sleep. The constant hum of the engine kept me awake while the consistent and overwhelming screams of a child a few seats ahead of me began to drive me insane. We eventually stumbled out of the bus into downtown Portland without a clue where to go or what we were going to do for the next few hours. Ducky had already booked an AirBnB so we slowly meandered that way after stopping into the Montbell shop. 

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Shortly after we ended up getting an uber to the AirBnB. The last few hours with Scooter were quickly coming to a close, so we decided to grab some grub before he headed out back to Philly. The local pizza by the slice joint sounded appealing. 

After we finished our pizza, it was time. Scooter got up from the table, as did I. We embraced each other with a long hug and a few words of encouragement for each other. I know I’ll see Scooter sooner than later, but it was still tough to see him leave. 

I admire him far more than he knows. He’s one of the most driven and motivated people I’ve ever known. He’s eccentric, positive, indescribably genuine and truly just a good dude. I’m thankful we had the oppprtunity to hike another 1000 miles together this year. I watched him walk towards the bus stop as I attempted to process the fact that I had watched all of my friends either hike out, or go home. It’s an odd feeling seeing people continue on and pursue other passions when your amidst a thru hike. 

It was just Ducky and I at that point; something I had been looking forward to once again.

We didn’t have any real plans for what we would do in Portland, but most of the time, that’s exactly how I want to explore a city. 

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We began each of our slow, bright mornings in Portland with an americano for myself and a dry cappuccino for her. We tried a few different coffee shops off of Division St. over the course of time in the city, something both Pauline and I enjoy every bit of. Coffee is such a big part of both of our morning routines so it’s always nice trying new spots with her. She generally prefers her coffee with a croissant of some sort, so the search for the best bakery was on.  

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Our slow mornings were quickly followed by slower afternoons. The majority of our afternoons were spent napping and planning where we would get dinner that night. We found a few places that really peaked our interests. Each night we enjoyed each other’s company in a beautiful city, eating beautiful food, and having beautiful, riveting conversations. Pauline and I are very like minded in many different ways, but we hold very different lifestyles in our respective cities. This makes for an incredible amount of perspectives held within each conversation, creating long, engaging and truly eye opening conversations that would last for hours. That’s something I’ve really come to love about our relationship. 

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 So the days went on, and on, and on; or at least that’s how it felt. I’ve come to realize that time spent with Pauline is unlike any other. Minutes feel like hours. Hours like days. Everything is in full slow motion with her. I find myself absolutely astonished at how both quick and at how so slow each day moves with her. I felt like I had all the time in the world while I simultaneously watched the last few grains of sand drop into the bottom of the hour glass. We dared not talk about our final goodbye, well, until it finally came time. 

So if you haven’t figured it out by now, I made my final decision to get off of the PCT when I went to Portland. This post has both nothing to do with the PCT and everything to do with it. I’ll write a more dedicated blog post with my final thoughts on the PCT later, but yes, I made the decision to get off trail and see what was around the next bend, wherever that may be. 

Pauline had a flight booked back to Amsterdam on the 28th, and I chose to fly out a day before her, and all of a sudden the day had arrived. 

It was the hardest goodbye I’ve ever had to say to someone.

I’ll keep it to that for now as far as our time in Portland together goes. The more I write and talk about it, the more I find myself wishing that I didn’t have to make any of these decisions.

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I got on the plane; my mind clouded with emotion. I had a layover in Chicago, then onto Cleveland where my good friend Danny would pick me up. 

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I’m home now, but only for a short amount of time before I embark on the next chapter of this wild adventure we call life. 

I’ve got one more blog post coming from the PCT. A culmination of thoughts I wrote down while on Trail, and post trail thoughts. My conclusion on the PCT will be in that post.  

Stay tuned.